I've been planning this trip (and eventually this post) for summer 2020 and here we are. My lesson learned along this journey for the last couple of "unprecedented" years: Never EVER postpone your trips in your travel bucket list, because you will never know when you can actually make it.
So when I found time for a quick long weekend escape, I finally and super excitingly made this journey come true - regardless of the fact that the weather was unusually cold and it even snowed, BUT totally worth it! Here are my travel notes and itinerary for the lovely city of Copenhagen - enjoy :)
Areas to Explore
Copenhagen is one of those cities that is just enjoyable to walk around and explore (or by cycling, as it's a heaven for bike lovers with convenient cycle paths spanning around the city). I'd suggest kicking-off the tour around the city center and wandering around the streets with many shades of colorful houses. Snaregade and Magstræde are two of the oldest streets in the Old Town of Copenhagen that you wouldn't want to miss. Gråbrødretorv is a lovely public square in the city center with cafes with charming patios; Højbro Plads is another area connecting the pedestrian shopping district with canal surrounding by historical landmarks - such a pleasant area to explore, take the cameras out! Also, Vesterbro is a district on the west side of the central station, popular neighborhood and it's apparently the newest "cool and hippie" area to hang out, including Meatpacking District that has many independent restaurants and art galleries. On the northwest, Nørrebro is an area worth visiting, at it is Copenhagen's most culturally diverse district.
Christianshavn is one of the most picturesque neighborhood as it's made up of a group of islands and coloured houses by the canals. It's also home to the Freetown Christiana, former military space and now a anarchist community of ~1,000 people that has its own rules and regulations, completely independent of the Danish government. It's such a unique experience to wander around in this quirky and rebel area, full of graffities and wall arts.
Places to See
Nyhavn is the unarguably the most famous street of Copenhagen, you probably have already seen many pictures of it - the one with colorful townhouses by the canal. "Nyhavn" actually means "new harbour" or "new port", even though it's built around 17th century and has been a working maritime for a long time. There are many cafes and restaurants full with tourists at the colorful northern side of the canal (actually called the "Sunny side"), nice to walk around and take many MANY pictures! You can also take a scenic boat cruise from here: It takes around an hour and it's a great way of seeing the city along the waterways and canals - highly recommended!
20 min walk from Nyhavn waterfront, you can take a visit to see Little Mermaid - the smallest but one of the most photographed statues in the world (and yes, just like "Manneken Pis" in Brussels, it's famous but too small in size that it makes you think "Really?!" But you just can not leave without seeing it because you know "fomo" will track you down... as well as the ghost of Hans Christian Andersen, the author of our childhood's fairytale, so think of this as a tick in the bucket list and enjoy all the tourists queuing to take dozens of pictures). ANYHOW, this tiny sculpture on the rocks, looking over the harbor, is a gift from Carl Jacobsen - who fell in love with the character after watching the ballet performance and asked Danish sculptor Edvard Eriksen to create a sculpture of the mermaid. On your way back from this tiny landmark, you can pass by the Kastellet, one of the best preserved fortresses in Europe that was constructed in the form of a pentagram with bastions in its corners (check your Google map, it has quite an interesting shape) and it's also nice to walk around. You may also get the chance to see Frederik's Church, or Marble Church, city's one of the most impressive historical architectures.
In few minutes further down, check out Amalienborg Palace, Denmark version of Buckingham Palace: the official residence of Danish royal family. It consists of four palaces, built around an octagonal courtyard (Is it me or don't you also think Danes are a bit obsessed with geometry, with these highly symmetrically shaped areas? LOVE it!) Similarly, there is even a changing of the guards ceremony, if you're really into royals. Be careful though, if you want to get sneak peak through the windows of the palace buildings, they run towards and shout at people (true story!). You can also wander around Christianborg Palace, which used to be the home for royals (from one palace to another) but now houses the Danish parliament, the Supreme Court and the Ministry of State; as well as Rosenborg Castle, the 400-year old Renaissance castle that preserves the crown jewels and coronation chairs (hope it's has a proper insurance?!) Its rose garden filled with sculptures with pavilion is great to walk around with coffee.
You also can not miss the Tivoli Gardens: World's second-oldest amusement park (1843), including many roller coasters and lush gardens. Even though this is THE place I'd probably spent my entire day, it was closed during my late-March visit: another reason to come back to Copenhagen! Rumor has it that Walt Disney has been inspired by Tivoli for his building his own Disney world.
If you'd like to enjoy the panoramic view the city, you have two options: Round Tower is an interesting one, as you need to walk all the way to the top through a spiral path - which provides not only nice views of the different angles of the streets, but also transforms you into medieval times by reading the stories along the path. The observatory at the top is outdoors and you can get a 360 degree view, even spot the famous Øresund Bridge (connecting Denmark and Sweden) and lovely architectural landmarks around! Church of Our Savior is another option, with its unique serpentine spire at the top of the church that you need to climb 400 stairs "outside" the tower (not a winter activity!)
While wandering in the city, take a closer look at the iconic City Hall building right at the heart of the city; Børsen (Danish stock exchange) and its gothic style four intertwined dragon tails of the dragon spire, topped by three crowns - symbolizing the Scandinavian empire – Denmark, Norway, and Sweden; unique design of The Royal Danish Opera House at the shore of the harbor; and my personal favorite Black Diamond (Royal Danish Library) - the nickname is based on the angular polished black marble structure with an stunning interior - and it's free to visit. (even to take your book/journal and spend time around, just like I did!) You can also see the Circle Bridge from the glass window facing the waterfront.
Art & Museums
If you have limited time, say 2-3 days, National Museum of Denmark is definitely the one I'd suggest prioritizing to visit. It's a great time travel of Denmark's history, showcasing from Vikings in a comprehensive exhibition area that allows you to explore, read and watch interactive videos about how they departed from small village called Ribe in 700s and travelled across the world for centuries that eventually shaped the history of many countries, including UK. Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek is an art and sculpture museum with a glass-domed winter garden filled with palm trees and fountain - gives a tropical break to the cold weather outside for sure! It displays marble statues from ancient and modern collections of Egyptian, Greek and Roman art.
If you have more time to explore, SMK - Statens Museum for Kunst (National Gallery for Danish and international art/paintings), Design Museum (works of famous Danish designers and architects) and Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (located 35 km north of Copenhagen, focuses on modern and contemporary art works including Picasso, Warhol and Monet) are great options for art lovers!
Food & Drinks
Try the famous Danish smørrebrød (open-faced sandwiches built on a sourdough rye bread) at the Torvehallerne Market, which is a buzzing indoor food hall; or alternatively in Aaman's Deli. If you're a burger fan (who isn't?), head to Gasoline Grill, the most hyped-hamburger place which is actually in a gas station! You'll also see many hot dog stands around the city serving the Danish version: remoulade sauce, fried onions and pickles. DØP, the organic hot dog stand, is the perfect place to get one (or two!). You can also take a visit to Meatpacking District in Vesterbro for another food market at the hipster hood!
Also.. of course, here it comes the Danish bakery! It's *not* called "danish" here (expectedly) but this doesn't change the fact that they are the yummiest pastries ever and it's a heaven in mouth for breakfast or brunch. Sankt Peders Bageri is the oldest and most traditional bakery in Copenhagen, their cinnamon buns and almond croissants will give you tears of joy.. Buka Bakery is another great option, try their cardamom buns; or Lagkagehuset (you'll see many of them around the city, named Ole & Steen in London - which is actually my favorite bakery!). For coffee, please make yourself a favor and head straight to Coffee Collective - it is THE best coffee of Copenhagen. Also, if you like to enjoy a coffee with a view, take a visit to Original Coffee (top floor of Illum) and sip your coffee at their rooftop while watching the city from above.
I LOVED every single moment I spent in Copenhagen! The more I walked around, observed daily lives of people and read more about Danish culture - especially their highest happiness index in the world, their hygge and lykke concept of living; the more I'm intrigued on how to take lessons from Denmark. Food for thought to bring it home with me and lots to think about!
“Hygge is about having less, enjoying more; the pleasure of simply being. It is generous and celebratory, a way to remember the importance of the simple act of living itself.”
“Lykke is the word for joy and happiness"
Hope you had a "happy" reading and enjoy the beautiful Copenhagen!
Secil